Embarking on a culinary journey to the frozen continent of Antarctica, I, a seasoned chef, share my extraordinary experience working at the British Antarctic Survey (BAS). The adventure begins with a challenging journey, spanning multiple flights and several days, to reach this remote destination. My initial dream of joining BAS was almost realized three decades ago, but fate intervened with the arrival of my first child. Instead, I pursued my passion in prestigious kitchens, from Michelin-starred restaurants in Paris and London to hotels in Kuala Lumpur and St Moritz, and even a school in Oxfordshire.
In 2016, I seized the opportunity for a sabbatical and finally joined BAS as a chef for the summer. This marked the beginning of a remarkable journey. Five years later, I returned for the winter, and last year, I became the organization's full-time catering manager. I was ready for the adventure that awaited.
My role involves overseeing catering operations across BAS's five Antarctic stations, which serve as research bases and homes for staff. Each year, I spend three months in Antarctica, working at the main hub, Rothera, during the summer. During this time, we have a team of four chefs, and our daily routine starts with baking bread, consuming around 12kg of bread mix during peak season. We provide three meals a day, including a traditional 'smoko' at 10 am, consisting of a fry-up with bacon rolls, beans, sausages, tomatoes, and soups, totaling 5,000 calories per day to fuel the staff's active outdoor work.
Despite the limitations, we strive to provide a satisfying dining experience. With a predominantly British staff, we cater to their preferences by offering comfort foods like toad in the hole, shepherd's pie, fish and chips, curries, and a roast dinner on Sundays. On Saturdays, we indulge in a more elaborate restaurant-style dining experience, complete with tablecloths and candles, often featuring a themed menu.
However, the challenges of cooking in Antarctica are unique. The food arrives frozen, requiring thawing, which inevitably affects taste. While meat, fish, and dairy maintain their quality, fruits and vegetables lose their texture and crunch. Managing supplies is crucial, as we receive only one food delivery per year at Rothera, necessitating bulk purchases of items like bacon, sausages, and chopped tomatoes. Dry goods fill up to four 20ft-long shipping containers, while frozen goods require one or two additional freezers of similar size.
Our kitchen is well-equipped and professional, offering a stunning view of icebergs, the sea, and mountains. The continent itself is stark and barren, with only emperor penguins as companions. Yet, the peninsula teems with wildlife, including various penguin species, seals, and whales, and is home to birds like skuas, albatrosses, and petrels.
The extreme cold presents a unique challenge. Temperatures can drop to -40C during winter, and upon joining BAS, you receive a comprehensive kit bag and training on survival in the cold. The key to staying warm is wearing the right gear, avoiding getting wet, consuming high-fat and high-sugar foods, and staying active.
Working in Antarctica transforms priorities. You realize, as the French philosopher Jean Bodin once said, that 'there is no wealth but in men.' Material possessions become less valuable, and the need to recycle and ship waste back home highlights the wastefulness of our rich western societies. Adjusting to the real world after such an experience can be challenging, leaving one questioning their place in the world.
As told to Emma Magnus. Do you have a story to share? Email experience@theguardian.com.
